The food scene in Syria has become a clear picture of the country after more than 14 years of the devastating war, as markets and restaurants turned into symbols of recovery attempts despite the widespread economic and social destruction that the war left.
Bloomberg indicates that life in the capital, Damascus, has begun again in alleys and markets, with a gradual return of commercial activities and restaurants, but this return is still slow and stalled due to continuous challenges, including inflation and poor purchasing power of the population.
On the other hand, cities such as Aleppo remain mired in the repercussions of war, as their suffering was not limited to the destruction of the years of fighting, but rather increased the earthquake in 2023 ruins, which made the pace of recovery in it slower and more complicated, according to Bloomberg.
Restaurants and markets are slowly returning to life
On a tour through the Medhat Pasha Market (one of the oldest markets in Damascus), the crowd still reflects the population’s desire to restore their normal lives.
Although many restaurants that embraced political figures and international visitors have retreated, some ancient names such as Narning Restaurant are trying to return, but at a modest pace.
The restaurant – which was previously a symbol of the upscale food scene in Damascus – no longer has only a few workers compared to the pre -war period.
On the other hand, it seems that popular food stalls have regained their customers, such as the sellers of Al -Qatayef (pies stuffed with cream and nuts), as they continue to provide them in the traditional way themselves despite the scarcity of resources.
“At least now we can breathe freely,” says one of the sellers, in reference to the improvement of the situation after the fall of the regime.
The effects of war on the Syrian cuisine
Bloomberg notes that the repercussions of the war affected even the traditional Syrian dishes, as the production of the famous Aleppo pepper was affected by the destruction of the fields during the war years.
This pepper – which was a symbol of the Syrian flavor – has declined its production, to the extent that the markets have become dependent on Turkish alternatives.
One of the spices dealers in the Bazuriya market confirms that some farmers are trying to cultivate pepper in the few areas that were not completely destroyed, with hopes for a new harvest by next July.
As for the city of Aleppo – which was the capital of the Arab cuisine – it suffered from widespread destruction, whether due to the bombing during the war or the earthquake that struck it in 2023.
Most of the famous traditional restaurants closed their doors, most notably the “Beit Sisi” restaurant, which was completely burned in 2012, while many craftsmen were forced to leave the country, and some of them settled in Lebanon, Turkey and Europe, which raises questions about whether they could return one day to revive the art Halabi cooking.
Careful recovery
Despite the destruction, there are indications of the return of life to normal. On the way between Damascus and Aleppo, some of the breaks that offer the sweetness of traditional mush in the city of Nabek are still working after most of its stores were destroyed during the war.
One of the sellers says, “We suffered a lot, but people have returned to buy mush, and this gives us hope,” says one of the sellers.
In ancient Aleppo, some spice merchants returned to sell their local products despite the difficulty of importing and export, and one of them confirms that the markets have begun to witness an increasing demand for Halabi pepper locally and internationally, which may help support its cultivation and restore its position globally.
Cooking heritage as a monotheistic element for Syria
According to Charles Perry, a researcher in the history of Arab cooking, “the Syrian cuisine is the common denominator that all Syrians are proud of regardless of their political or regional affiliations, and it can be a unified element for the country in the next stage.”
The Bloomberg report adds that the real recovery is not only limited to political and economic reconstruction, but also includes the restoration of Syrian culture, which is one of its most important elements.
And he confirms that the return of some restaurants and markets to work indicates that the Syrians seek to rebuild their identity after years of displacement and destruction.
In light of these transformations, there are great challenges, most notably the rebuilding of the infrastructure, the provision of food, and the restoration of the skilled chefs who migrated during the war.
But with signs of market recovery and restaurants, it can be said that Syria, despite everything, is trying to restore its lost flavor.
